Last blog update from Uganda- Rwanda and some thoughts...

Antoine and I headed for a short trip to Rwanda. The bus ride from Kampala to Kigali took 10 hours and when we reached the boarder I got the visa free of charge and Antoine was almost denied entry. Apparently he had to fix a visa in advance and pay 60 dollars for it whilst I got away with not paying a penny since I have a Swedish passport. Do not know really why but apparently there is an agreement between certain countries, and the Netherlands is not one of them. Like I often tell Antoine, it is beneficial in more than several ways to be Swedish J The man behind the counter who had the decision of entries in his hands was kind enough to let Antoine through for this time, but he had to pay 60 dollars. When we entered Rwanda it was a very different scenario compared to Uganda. Rwanda is very green and has several high hills. I was just picturing the film Hotel Rwanda in my head. The scenario and the atmosphere brought my thoughts back to the genocide. Having a degree in Human rights and having the topic of the genocide in Rwanda often addressed in class was an extra motivation for choosing to go to Rwanda. Antoine called Rwanda two faced and this I found a good resemblance to what it actually is. The consequences of the genocide was still in the air since it was not a long time ago it occurred, however there was an unwillingness to speak of it. We stayed at a motel which was in good shape and the manager was very friendly. We asked him a few questions about the genocide and a certain amount of resilience was detected. I later found out that they prefer not speaking to much of what happened, but at the same time they find it important not to forget the past in order for it not to occur again. Their eagerness to move on I think is the reason for them not wanting to dwell in discussions of the past, but as an outsider the knowledge of the past is of great interest, especially when told in person. With that said, we also did not manage to engage in fluent conversations with many Rwandans since they prefer speaking French than English.

 We went to the genocide museum. Outside were small gardens each garden with a meaning.  For example the rose garden resembled each woman who had been murdered in the genocide. The fountain resembled a now united Rwanda and the beautiful meanings went on. The burial place had over 500 000 corps lying there, but still many bodies are missing. Inside the museum the story was told of how the idea of genocide began from the Belgian colonists separating Rwandans into groups of Tutsis and Hutus. Which later lead to the devastating genocide in Rwanda. The worst part is that the world looked by in silence without acting upon the brutality that was occurring. One million Tutsis (and some Hutus who did not wish to murder Tutsis) had been murdered within three months. They had been brutally killed with machetes, buried alive, raped (many of the women raped have HIV today. This is used as a method of slowly eliminating a race) forced to kill family members, and much more of the worst things you can imagine. One room was in specific very heartbreaking, a room with pictures of only children who had been murdered. Below the pictures, their names, age, their likings, their last words and finally how they had been murdered was stated. Many visitors could not resist the tears when seeing this. It was terrible. I truly can not understand the cruelty that mankind is capable of.

Other than the genocide museum Antoine and I just enjoyed each other’s company. We ate out in different restaurants both Chinese and Indian food, and I was happy to eat something else than beans. J Ever since I came to Uganda it has been beans every day. Don’t get me wrong I love beans in all shapes and colors but after three months my taste buds are yearning for something else. When we returned to Kampala we spent a night at a hotel and had a full day of just walking around in town and relaxing with a fresh smoothie in the hot sun.  Then we met up with the Karlsson family and went to do some exercise and take a dip in the pool. The day before Antoine had to leave for Amsterdam we decided to go and play some foot ball. Elin, robin, Antoine and I went in search of a ground to play on, and shortly we were accompanied by several African kids. The African kids were running around in hagged clothes and were barefoot but had an incredible stamina. They could go on playing forever. It was a lot of fun.

Last night Antoine left for Amsterdam and I myself have only five days more here with the Karlsson family in Uganda. The last month here has mainly been about travelling and very little effort has been put into my research but I am not concerned. I know the stress of getting everything done will set in when I arrive in Europe as the same old patterns return. However I will try my best to maintain some of that “care free- Africa mood” I have managed to establish within myself here. I want to maintain that sense of peace and awareness. We complain about a whole lot of meaningless things back home which is not comparable to the concerns people have here, yet we are the ones dealing with a lot of depression. Not that depression does not exist here in Africa, however when people need to attend to their basic needs like getting food on the table, they tend not to dwell on emotions but more on practicalities. This is something I can apply to my own life. I am a very emotional being and at times the empathy I feel can be overwhelming. I start thinking and questioning a lot. I am grateful for this since it makes my life colorful and I see several shades of green leaves on a tree than only one, but at times just acknowledging the presence of the tree can be enough than going into deeper thought. It sounds very abstract, I know, but simply the fact of just focusing more on the actions than the constant thought behind it is something some people can adhere to more, whilst others need to apply the opposite. To actually give some things a thought before they act.

These three and a half months here have gone by so fast and back home I think many of my friends would feel, oh you are already back! However when you are abroad in an environment unlike your own and each day you learn something new about another culture the impressions are several.  My time here even though it has been short has brought me so close to the Karlsson family whom I adore. It has brought me closer to my walk with God, and a lot of questions have been answered. It has given me knowledge about ADRA and has also opened up doors for me to take a step and maybe work within the NGO world (The outcome of where and when is yet uncertain) and finally this experience has brought me closer to Africa, and Uganda in particular. Uganda has given me a greater understanding and acceptance of life. This world is beautiful with its colorful people, fruits, animals, and nature. However it is temporary state. We never know if we will be here tomorrow or not. Death is a daily happening in Uganda as mentioned before. This has made me understand that it is not a matter of how long we live our life but it is a matter of how we live our life, and the quality put into it. To be good to one another and to truly live each day as it were the last. I speak of the obvious, but I do not mean knowing it because we all do know this, but really letting this understanding become a part of your heart and being. This is not a sad acceptance but an extremely liberating one. I try to wake up each day and say, God thank you for blessing me with a new day and let’s give it a new try to be as good as I can be today. When I was in Amsterdam I focused very much on yesterdays and tomorrows and not the actual today and I see very many people back home having the same mindset.  I might fall into old patterns and mindset when I get back home, but my identity is a collection of my experiences. And what is an experience if I do not learn from it? So hopefully I can apply what I have learnt here in my everyday life wherever I am. With that said I am grateful for my time in Africa, and my heart tells me I will be back. J But for now See you back in Europe! 

Riots in my body and Riots in Uganda...

Ever since I got back from my backpack vacation I have not felt like we would say in Swedish “helt hundra” meaning not feeling completely a hundred percent. However I was looking forward to Antoine coming and the days were nearing. The day he arrived I started shivering and getting body pains. Even though he wished it was a reaction to the excitement of his arrival I knew it was something else. I then got a fever and went from feeling OK to feeling like crap. Siri being a nurse and almost have died from malaria herself as a child sensed I had got it. The whole night I was struggling in my sleep, shivering and feeling cold, as well as having terrible joint pains. My temperature was high and I could not move from the bed without feeling I would collapse. Siri kept a watching eye on me and in the morning I had to be taken to the hospital and Antoine accompanied.  When I arrived I had 39.4 degree fever and was extremely dehydrated so the nurses gave me drip and injections to put the fever down. After checking my blood and concluding I had malaria in the blood they gave me an anti malaria injection, and heavy anti malaria drugs. I was instructed to take 14 of them a day. At the hospital I had about 5 nurses checking on me every thirty seconds. Three of them in different turns wanted to give me the same injection in my bum. Luckily Antoine stopped them before I got an overdose of anti malaria. It was quite hilarious how attentive they were for the sake of us being “Mzungu”. But hey I do not complain. Later when I got home, the drugs made me lose my appetite, I got a sour throat, felt extreme fatigue but had difficulties sleeping. Despite this the next day I went with Siri to a project in Wakiso, whilst Antoine accompanied Thore on another project.  The Wakiso project entailed Human rights education to trainers who then would spread the training to other beneficiaries. The topic of right bearers (Humans) and duty bearers (Government, organizations etc) were addressed. At the same time we were addressing human rights and the importance of upholding laws, terrible riots were going on outside. The government itself and the armed force that are expected to be the duty bearers of our rights were the same people behind the cause of the riots.  Besigye who is the opponent of Museveni has been a center of attention in the tumult going on in Uganda. He is a guy who is bitter that he lost the election and claims it was corruption. This might be the case since a lot in Uganda is quite corrupt but nevertheless the majority here seems to believe that Museveni even if he has been in the power too long is the man for the task. Besigye said he would now give up without a fight and also has quite a strong group of supporters behind him. To make a long story short, Besigye, however annoying he might have been, did not deserve the treatment he got. Instead of letting him walk to work the police shot him in the hand, then when he wanted to drive to work the police decided which road he should take. When he did not obey they sprayed four cans of tear gas at him and he was severely injured.   As a consequence massive riots broke out all over the country. The roads were blocked and filled with military and police. There were gunshots just outside our home. Robin and Elin were still at home and heard everything.  Two were killed and over 100 injured.  The situation was considered dangerous. Rumours were going that Besigye might be dead and some suspected that if so a war might break out, but that was just a rumor. He is not dead but receiving treatment in Nairobi.  When the riots break out you should not be in the wrong place at the wrong time. It is quite surreal being in the middle of it all when the riots break out which already has happened a few times after the elections, however at the same time I still feel so distant from it. After a while it becomes a part of reality and nothing special. My life here has become my everyday reality. The mob that have their own rules and regulations and do not hesitate to kill if needed. The constant riots break and protests, the corrupt politicians, the poverty and the diseases. It all becomes a part of everyday happenings.  One gets used to it all.

I went to the hospital again yesterday and the malaria is cured from my blood but if it is still in my lever can not be shown. The part that sucks is that malaria can be in the body for five years and can come back now and then. The reason for death of malaria is poverty (not being able to afford treatment) and going to the hospital too late since you might think it is a flu (This is lack of knowledge which I also had before I got it). Getting malaria in Africa where they know how to treat it is something I prefer than getting a relapse in Europe where the doctors and hospitals do not know much about it. But pray fully with today’s heavy medication it is completely cleared from my body. After a lot of rest and medicine I am feeling much better again and ready for my travel to Rwanda. 

From the hospital bed to Zanzibar.

The next step of our road trip was Moshi in Tanzania, in order to see the Kilimanjaro. Elin wanted to climb it but it would be too costly so we had to simply see it from a distance. In the evening we had something to eat at a small restaurant. There we met Jeff our waiter. He later accompanied us for a drink out in the evening.

However in the evening I started shivering heavily and I felt something was a bit wrong. The whole night I had a terrible stomachache and cramps, but the next day we wanted to continue to Dar Es Salaam so I had to eat a bunch of tablets and head on a 10 hour journey. Half way through I collapsed and started sweating like a pig. We had to get off the bus and I had to be taken to the nearest hospital. However before leaving we made sure we could travel on the same tickets since we had already paid for the full journey. The conductor on the bus said this was ok and stated that we could travel with the same ticket the following day. The village we were stranded in was named Mombo. When we arrived to the so called “hospital” we were faced with a building in really bad condition. The nurses were just staring at us and speaking Swahili.  I was thinking to myself, Oh My Gosh where have I ended up? The doctor I got however spoke English which felt comforting. I just wanted to make sure I had not got malaria, which I hadn’t. I had got a bad degree of food poisoning and needed drip and a lot of rest.  I felt bad that the girls had to forego one day of travelling and now ended up in no mans land due to my illness. However this quickly changed since the girls had got an eye on my doctor. Elin wanted to climb a mountain overlooking the village and the doctor offered to show how. Alexandra was simply intrigued by him so she also joined. The three of them went climbing and I was bed written. Later on in the evening we all went out for dinner. By then Alexandra had lost interest in the doctor since she found him a bore he on the other hand had seemed to gain some interest in her. He was the perfect gentleman and nothing happened at the end of the evening than a goodbye. I accompanied the dinner even though I could not eat. I just needed some fresh air and company. Furthermore I wanted to get out from the room we had got for the night. It was a “guesthouse” for hospital visitors. The toilet was a hole in the ground and the three of us had to share one bed. Worst of all was that the washing water was brown. It was not the ideal place to have stomach problems but nevertheless it was manageable. The next day I had to get some drip and more tablets in order to be on the road again. I was not in the right condition to travel at all. But we were on a time limit since Alexandra had to fly back to Sweden on the 17 of April and we really wanted to spend at least 5 days in Zanzibar, so the journey continued. When we arrived on the bus we had intended to take they asked us for more money. We refused to pay since the conductor had already given us the word that we need not to pay. She now had changed her mind since she was getting pressured from another conductor on the bus. We knew that they saw we were tourists and wanted more money to put in their own pockets so we refused to pay and refused to get off the bus. I can not stand unfairness or someone going back on their word. It became a bit of a turmoil but eventually they gave in and let us stay without paying double. 

We got to Dar Es salaam and then took the ferry to Zanzibar. This time we were not as lucky and we got scammed. We had to pay 40 dollars whilst a middle aged white couple we met had paid 25 dollars. Paying a higher price than other Africans I can reason with but higher than other whites, no way. Alexandra and I got quite upset about this and starting questioning why. Apparently we had got VIP room which we had not asked for. VIP room meaning a gas smelling room, with a drunkard half naked African sleeping on the floor. This was a struggle we could not win. The boat left the dock and we had lost this battle. When we finally arrived to Zanzibar it looked amazing. Stone town was vibrant with life. However our main priority was the beach. We had heard Zanzibar would be a paradise, but it really depends on where on the island you end up. We first went to the east side since we wanted to go to the more remote and calm areas. The beach we ended up in had full of sea weed and we started questioning peoples definition of paradise and if it could really be that far fetched from our conception of paradise. We decided no it can not. So we headed to the north were we knew there would be more tourists but since it is low season we decided it should not be too bad.  Thank gosh we made that choice. The beaches in the north were the best I have seen in my life so far, white sandy beaches and perfect clear blue water. It was truly a paradise. We went snorkeling and lazing of at the beach. My stomach after four days of not being able to eat finally started recuperating. Though all the hustle to get to Zanzibar it was just so beautiful and worth it all in the end. Our final night in Zanzibar we went to the full moon party with some of the guys we had met on our snorkeling trip. One of the guys called himself Mr Solution. (They had given themselves funny alias names, like Mr chapati and Braveheart J etc). We needed help to get to the beach party since we did not know how to get there. Mr solution took as there but he had a  too many sips of his friend Mr wine so he was a bit drunk. He kept saying the same sentences “hakuna matata” and “ I am Mr solution and no problems only solutions” all night. Yeah sure the sentences had a positive vibe but after a certain amount of times I shut my ears. The party was not a hit and we would be flying back to Uganda in a few hours so we simply enjoyed the moonlight and soon headed back to our hostel. After all the bus rides to get to Zanzibar we now take a flight back to Uganda. This was due to lack of time since Alexandra had to shortly after catch the flight back to Sweden. 

                                          Mr solution

After 5 hours we were in Entebbe in Uganda and exhausted. Funny, only after two months in Uganda coming back felt like coming home. I was looking forward to my own bed in Kampala and seeing the Karlsson family again. We said bye to Alexandra and after a lot of hastle fixing a taxi back to Kampala from Entebbe we finally reached home to the ADRA compound. The following day riots had broken out and we could not leave the compound area. Things are settled now again but no one knows if it will happen again. It is still the ongoing tension of the after math of the elections. The outcome is yet to be seen but regardless of the uncertainty, each day the sun sets and rises. 

Safari and Masais

My friend Alexandra from Sweden came to visit me in Uganda and we decided we would travel through Kenya, Tanzania and Zanzibar during the two and a half weeks Alexandra would be here. Elin would also accompany us. I was happy to see Alexandra again. I am not able to meet  her  as frequently since I moved to Amsterdam, however when we do meet it is like no time has passed. It was also nice that she had the opportunity of meeting the Karlsson family who have come to grow very close to my heart.

After the weekend had passed the three of us, Elin, Alexandra and myself took the bus to Nairobi in Uganda. The bus ride took 12 hours, and the roads were terrible. Uganda has a lot of pot holes in the roads and each time the bus drove over them we flew up from our seats and almost knocked our heads.  The bus ride was like a twelve hour unpleasant roller coaster ride. When we finally arrived to Nairobi bus station we got off and had some dinner in a restaurant nearby. A whole fish plus Ugali (boiled corn flour) was on the menu. It was not to our liking but it was at least food. 

After eating our meal we needed to take a taxi to our hostel.  After a lot of negotiating with the taxi driver of the price we wanted to pay, he passed us over to a friend of his who was driving an illegal taxi car. This guy drove us for the price we requested. He also smelt like he had taken a lot of pot. Whenever we tried to converse with him we did not get a sensible answer. Elin was a bit concerned about his driving skills but we calmed her with the simple fact that at least he was enjoying the ride.

We entered the back packers’ hostel which had the usual atmosphere. The hostel was a colorful place with travelers passing through from one destination to the next, wearing a relaxed look and the  clothes and hair were maintained in all simplicity. And not to forget the collection of local bracelets on their arms which they have picked up on the way, each bracelet with a different story to tell.

Alexandra, Elin and I wanted to go on a safari in the Masai mara in Kenya. The eco system of Serengeti stretches between Kenya and Tanzania. The same animals wander between the two countries. Before heading out on the Safari we spent a day in Nairobi. Nairobi is said to be a dangerous capital and when you walk on the streets you see signs stating to alarm the police if you see anyone holding armed weapons. However after being in Johannesburg I found Nairobi not having an alarming vibe but more of a metropolitan feeling. It is far more advanced than Uganda’s capital Kampala. Better roads, many more restaurants and shops. There were also quite a lot of foreign business men and women.  Of course the outskirt of Kenya is also poverty stricken but by just judging the capitals Kampala and Nairobi the differences are major.

The following day we left for the safari. An American girl named Nitti also accompanied us on the tour. She had flown the whole way from San Francisco and straight after joined us on the safari tour. To get to the Safari took an additional five hours so this was a very long travel for her. However she said that she always needs to keep herself in motion, but then again, the following day she fainted due to exhaustion and heat. We engaged in some good conversations with Nitti. When you travel you meet so many people. At times you just let go of boundaries and speak of whatever crosses your mind since there are no expectations attached. You create a brief bond knowing that you might never meet again, but just carry with you the words expressed. Just that acceptance that you meet some people for a reason, some for a season and others for a lifetime gives a pleasure in every encounter, however brief it may be. On the other hand facebook has changed a lot of the mystery behind “wonder whatever happened to that interesting person I met”.  

Nitti was telling us about her marriage. She seemed so much in love with her husband.  She had been married for two years but they had known each other for nine years. She said that people often say that the beginnings should be rosy and nice but the first three years for her were clearing out the differences and doubts which later lead to an agreement of understanding. She said that after that they fell more in love than ever. I found this very comforting and similar to my own situation. My partner and I are travelers in our souls and we have spent the last three years trying to combine our different cultural backgrounds, destinations and longings with each other. He has always been supportive of whatever I do and allowed me to explore myself and go wherever I wish, even if it meant me doing so alone. He is my best friend and I can not see myself without him. Even though love can strike fast, friendship takes time. Reaching this point may have taken time, but a solid foundation can not be built over a night.

                             The safari was amazing and much better than the one I had done in South Africa. However Kenya and Tanzania are very famous for their safari. We almost saw the big five, the buffalo, lion, cheetah, and the leopard. The only one we missed seeing was the black rhino. It is very difficult to see the rhino and almost impossible to see the leopard. However I am so pleased we saw the leopard since of the five it is my favorite. The leopard lives its life as a loner and is so incredibly beautiful. The lion was also very majestic but extremely lazy. Lions sleep apparently 20 out of 24 hours. One of the male lions we spotted had just eaten a buffalo and fallen asleep. His family had left him since he had dazed of. He then could not find them and when we spotted him he had just woken up and was calling for them. His roar was amazing. I was surprised that even though there were so many jeeps surrounding the animals they were not bothered. James our guide explained that they can not get a scent from the vehicles therefore they ignore it. However if one would step out of the vehicle the lion would attack. It felt incredible just being a few meters from the lions and other animals in the wild. Unfortunately we did not see a hunt taking place but knowing myself I most likely would have started crying at the sight of a gazelle or other animal being slaughtered by a lion.

We stayed two nights in a big tent with an own shower and a toilet. We heard the hyenas at night and Alexandra and Nitti were a bit scared. However outside the Masai were keeping guard to prevent the hyenas, cheetahs and lions from entering. The Masai people are a tribe residing in both Kenya and Tanzania. Their signature mark is that they wear a red checked blanket and a specific type of sandal as clothing. The men in the tribe can jump very high and the higher they jump the less cows they need to give for a wife.  The masais like the karamojans live on blood and milk, however they have nowadays become very commercial. Many of them speak English and wear shorts and t-shirts under their blankets. Some of the masais invite tourists to see their villages and make a living out of it. They have got more commodities whilst maintaining the cultural traditions. Alexandra found these cloth bearing men very intriguing especially the masai who kept guard of us. We followed him to his village and he told us how he had killed a lion (in self defense). He showed us his home which was very small and so dark so we could not see a thing. They had a separate room for themselves and another one for their animals. We were able to ask them anything we wished and I asked if they circumcise their women. They said they do so when they reach the age of twelve. There is a book named the white masai, which is a self biography about a European woman who falls in love with a masai. She writes about the cultural differences. When their daughter was expected to be circumcised the cultural barriers were too hard to overcome so she eventually left the masai village. It is interesting how some people get fed up with the notion of life in the west and seek for the utmost basic lifestyle. However a harder fact to adapt to than the physical changes are the differences in mindset. 

Nakawuka and a moment...

I was asked to be ready at 6:30 in the morning to accompany George and Esther (ADRA development workers) to Wakiso district once again. They would be having a meeting with beneficiaries. It was still very dark when I woke up, and by 6:30 I was standing outside the office but no car was to be seen. The driver fetched me at 7:45. Puh… Africa time, but at least I got a chance to see the sunrise. It was amazing. I saw the bright sun rise up and the darkness was now exchanged with light. At times when you stand still and observe the nature you get amazed what a perfect function everything has. I do not understand how some people can think all of it is a coincidence and doubt the fact that there is an intelligent design behind it all.

When they finally fetched me we headed on a three hour drive. George was explaining the programme of the day. It would be a long day since a lot of work had to be done. I was looking forward to being on the field and see the meetings held with the beneficiaries. We eventually reached our destination. This area was unlike the other field work projects. It was not dry and sandy but very green. The nature was like a garden of trees embracing the path we drove into. On the side of the path some beneficiaries were seated on the green grass. George picked two passion fruits from a nearby tree and gave them to me to eat. It was delicious. I took a seat next to Esther. An old lady who was one of the beneficiaries took a seat next to us. She was wearing a torn green dress and her breasts were showing. She was smiling and apologized for forgetting to put on a bra. The old lady was very nice and talkative. Esther kept telling her how pretty she looked. The old lady wore a red pearl necklace for the occasion and looked very pleased to be pampered with flattery from Esther. Esther questioned why her skin was lighter than most Africans and she said she had some mixture from Rwanda. Apparently they can be lighter in skin. The old lady said she had 14 children and only 4 were still alive. The other ten had died of sicknesses. She also said she can not walk. She asked Esther to call one of her grand children to take her to the hospital, and Esther asked for the number to do so. However the old lady had no number. Esther said that it is sad that the grand children don’t to their duty and visit their grandmother.

The meeting began and a lot was discussed. Some of the things mentioned were problems the community had. They said they are too big families and each household has about 15 children. They expressed that the only water resource they have is only a km away but people from that area plant eucalyptus trees and build homes just by the water so the water resource is drained. They also expressed that other locals invade their area and the grassing land of their animals. Then Esther brings up the perspective of advocacy. She explains the importance it is for the community to speak to each other and to advocate for their rights. She went further into details about how they need to explain to the other members in the community of how their actions destroy the water. Regarding the grassing dispute they arrangements amongst them need to be established. They need to work as a group and to reach an understanding as a community. I do not speak the language so most of what was said was translated to me. Nevertheless the facial expressions and the body language of the beneficiaries spoke the loudest. I felt a sense of resilience from the beneficiaries of what was said. I felt that the mindset the beneficiaries were in and what Esther was speaking of was not on the same level. It is not necessarily a matter that Esther was speaking in difficult terms, but the beneficiaries did not fully seem to buy the concept of advocacy and human rights. However these communities have during the years received a lot of service delivery (Goods and training in skills) from ADRA. Now it is time for them to be empowered and act for themselves than just thinking in terms of receiving. When we were later seated in the car I asked Esther about this, and she said that the beneficiaries do not fully buy the concept of human rights and often tells Esther. “Human rights can work in the west where it belongs, but not in Africa”.  I asked Esther if she believes in Human rights. The otherwise quite timid woman said loudly- yes I do. In this case I used myself as a tool and I told her I have a background in human rights. She then eagerly spoke a lot about human rights and I could really see her passion about the topic. She said I do believe Africa needs human rights in order to stop the criminality and corruption that goes on. Some fellow Africans say that it is impossible to do so here. She continued saying, if it works in the west then why should it not work here? What creates the misery? It is people themselves. And if people are aware of their rights, change can take place. The question is how to make this recognition of human rights appeal to the beneficiaries. Change is possible but takes time, and it starts by first making an impact.

                      The days are swiftly passing by in Uganda, and now two months have passed since I arrived here. Tomorrow Alexandra a good friend of mine from Sweden is coming to pay a visit and we will be travelling to Kenya and Tanzania for two weeks. I am looking forward to some backpacking adventure. Since I came to Africa I have got a different energy and I find myself more active which is nice considering I have got the nickname couch potato by some J. I spend the days in the office or in the field. In the evenings I play badminton with Elin, Robin and at times the neighbors or the workers of ADRA. Sometimes Elin and I go for long walks with the dogs, and yesterday evening we went running. The Africans were just staring and others were laughing at us Europeans just running for the sake of running. Halfway school children accompanied us and ran next to us. The sun was setting and we were running up and down a hill path. I know I will miss Africa and the people, but I cherish the days I have here, even if they only feel like a moment. The truth is that everything passes and all we have in life is a collection of moments. This is a moment I will cherish and bear with me.

Time and thoughts..

A few days ago I accompanied Alfred and Esther on a field mission to Nakawuka. Jimmy was the driver. Jimmy was the one who drove me to Kamwenge and we got along well in each other’s company so I was pleased to see that he would be the driver. After being here for almost two months I feel very much at home and the staff at ADRA whom I first had a difficulties connecting with have now become very open and welcomed me in many ways.  

It has rained today to everyone’s surprise. A drought was expected and the government has requested everyone to be careful with the goods and to store a lot of food before it would lessen in the markets and the prices would rise. However like the radio station jokingly said about the rain, is that when drought is expected by the meteorology it always rains and vice versa. However one of the concerns now is the amount of babies that will be produced since when it is “cold” (In of course African terms, and not cold in European terms) Africans search for heat and a lot of babies will be produced. The amount of family members in African families is extensive. When I say that I only have one older brother they get very surprised and question why. Here there is a high number of family members but also high numbers of mortality. The average life span is 44 years old, and this is apparently a lot compared to what it used to be. The traditional values are also very intriguing. There is countless number of clans in Uganda and two people of the same clan can not marry. For example if my mother would belong to the monkey clan and my father to the dragon clan (Yes that is what they are called) I can not marry from those groups, but I can marry a man from the pig clan. Then I automatically become a pig clan member. All that belong to the same clan are considered to be brothers and sisters.  Brothers and sisters is a common term and when they refer to this you do not know if they mean a blood relative or a clan member.

Whilst listening to the radio we turned off from the main road and continued our journey to Nakawuka. The sandy roads were clear red and the rain was pouring down. We arrived to a simple building by a petrol shed in the centre of Nakawuka. When I speak of petrol shed I mean two pumps that are rotated by hand. We entered in to a simple office with a big table in the middle and two computers on the side. The Community based group eventually came and a meeting was held about advocacy. The group was given a task of writing a constitution of their rights and this was now going to be reviewed.  After the meeting Alfred was going through some further details of the project with the others which would just take a short while. I could join if I wished but I decided to go to the car and wait. Jimmy and I sat in the car and we were talking about everything and nothing. We were comparing Europe and Africa in matters of love tradition and culture. I had my mp3 with me, so he was listening to some of my music and I his. It was a nice talk but we were seated in the car for almost four hours. I was wondering how much longer this “short” meeting would take, and I went in to speak to Alfred. He apologized and said there were two cars so Jimmy and I could go if we wished. I was ok with that, but wished he would have said this a bit earlier. Nevertheless I did enjoy sitting and talking to Jimmy. Back home sitting and waiting in a car for four hours would seem like a waste of time, but is it actually ever a waste of time? Every moment in life is a learning experience even if it is just sitting still and doing nothing but reflecting on one’s own thoughts. I have got a completely different understanding to time since I arrived here. “Africa time” does tests my patience sometimes but I have got much more patient in these matters which I am pleased with and needed.  

The following day we headed off to get some exercise and a swim. Rebecca and Eric accompanied us. Rebecca is the housemaid of the Karlsson family and Eric is a friend. Eric is Ugandan and has been to Norway once in the intent of selling books. The most common words he learnt there was "Nej tack" and "icke pengar" (which is no thanks and no money). He constantly uses those phrases :) I am not a big fan of exercising but standing on the treadmill and overlooking the beautiful scenery placed me in the right mood. Then we took a hop in the swimming pool and it was just great. We were trying to teach Rebecca and Eric how to swim. It was an amusing sight. Then other Africans were intrigued and Elin ended up being a swimming teacher for about four Africans.

After being in Uganda for almost two months and having close relations with the Country director of ADRA and his family, I have realized how much I love it here. Even though I do miss a few people at home, my longing for going back is limited. I feel like I have become a part of the family here, with Thore, Siri, Robin and Elin. Moreover the people here like my neighboors Purity, Joseph and my relations with the ADRA workers have just grown. However, I have been through this many times before, meeting for a season and then parting. Some situations are best enjoyed with a time limit. Nevertheless like my mother always says, “to meet and then to part is the hardest thing in human heart” and this is true.

I have always wanted to work with humanitarian aid since I was young and all of my choices have been towards this direction. Yet this has not come without any sacrifices. You need to have a special character to be willing to give up the commodities and stability that Europe can offer, and not everyone I have met has been willing to do so. I am soon done with my masters and I need about one more year of experience in this field, so I am in a situation where I am asking myself this question. Am I actually prepared to give up my stable ground now that the opportunity lies before me? Since I got here I have been able to make a few connections, and I myself have searched for some volunteer or job offers within the ADRA offices. Some possible offers have been placed in front of me. For example a position in Niger which is the poorest country in the world, and it is 45 degrees hot during their cold season (Though, I do not know if I can bare the extreme heat). I am also still awaiting replies from some other offices around the world. There are a few things hanging in the air. I might end up anywhere but as long as I am making a small difference in any way I can, I am pleased. This all sounds very abstract, even for me, but I am waiting with anticipation of where the nearest future will lead me…

Karamoja part 2, and the aftermath of the elections not yet concluded...

Early morning the following day we ate breakfast at the hotel which would be the only meal we could get during the day. The meal was bread, one boiled egg, a few pineapple slices and a banana. We had filled the cars with water bottles, juice and crackers since we would not be able to eat anything else during the day. We picked up the soldiers from the military camp in Karamoja and headed into the remote areas. Some of the soldiers accompanying us were fairly young and others not. They wore camouflaged clothing and had big riffles. The commander of the soldiers had been a soldier in Ida Amins army so regardless of age the soldiers were apparently trained very well.  The military and police in Uganda strictly refuse to let you take pictures of them, but I managed to get one with the younger soldiers whilst the others got angry just seeing the camera. I engaged in a conversation with the younger soldiers asking them a few questions. They said they had killed several warriors but had also lost a few colleagues. They let me hold their rifle which was my first time to hold a weapon. When we drove up to the dam area where the construction was taking place it was just so dry, and nothing to be seen for miles. There were a few tents set up for the engineers and constructors and of course for the military staff. After a two hour discussion out in the burning sun and me getting sun struck we headed to meet the village people who would be relocated to the dam area when it would be finished. We could not take the soldiers with us to the village but left them behind in the dam camp. In every tribe there are men who are warriors and arriving to the village with soldiers is coming with the enemy. The soldier’s protection is only needed when travelling in case there would be fierce warriors ambushing the ADRA cars. However we were heading to a village which knew ADRA and liked the fact that ADRA was building a dam for them. So we did not need to fear that the warriors of that village would use their rifles on us. When arriving to the village which was a small area with a few huts, I was overwhelmed with all the children that came running towards us. They were happy to see us but most of all they were intrigued by the camera. I took pictures of the children and they were posing and laughing and were amazed by the fact that they could see themselves. I had to pretty much take pictures of them constantly to keep them entertained and if I didn’t I would feel bad since it was such a joy for them. I was truly swamped with children around me. They were so dirty and some of them just had a sheet wrapped around there bodies. Like one ADRA worker said, even if they would have liked to take a wash they can not since they have no water. I wanted to hug them all, but could not since they have so much of germs. My heart sank of the fact that they go through so much of suffering, but yet they have a smile on their face when seeing us. When meeting Kayobi, who is an ADRA fieldworker who has lived with them for three months, I was amazed. He has lived under extreme conditions for the welfare of others. Hats off for people like that. Kayobi lives in a dangerous area not knowing when a tribe war might break out, sharing a small hut with four other people. At night he is covered with rat spilling. He said it is tuff but he has got used to it. Thore told me that very few people wish to be in these conditions of extreme poverty and tribe wars but ADRA field workers do so in order to help the beneficiaries to help themselves. To reach sustainable development and change you can not just give them food and leave, but give them the knowledge and self worth to reach it themselves. Kayobi is teaching the children ABC and training the adults in agriculture, so that when they dam is built and they have received seeds and the knowledge to plant, they can keep it running by themselves. Even though I saw Kayobis hut I was not able to see any of the others, since in some of them rifles are being hidden. As said previously, the young men amongst the tribe are or have been warriors killing for cattle. However now they are given a possibility of a different lifestyle than killing for cow milk and blood. 

      

We had a long drive ahead of us to get back home. Approximately 7 hours. Even though it was advised against driving home late at night, we all wanted to sleep in our own beds. The reason for not driving home late at night is that there are no lights on the side of the roads so it is pitch black. In Uganda they drive like crazy without any rules or regulations which also do not add to the safety factors. We drove pass a terrible car crash there a truck had smashed a car, and we saw blood on the side of the door, but the truck driver had just driven away and left the scene. Sad. 

On the way home there were several security check points. We were stopped about ten times. The police at the checkpoints made a quick look in our cars and let us continue. There has been a political tension in Uganda ever since the presidential election was held a few weeks ago, and Moseveni came to power once again. However the opposition said that he had come to power through cheating and bribing. The opposition has said that they will not give in without a fight. Even though Musoveni is admired for toppling Idi Amins regime, he has been in power since 1986 which some think is too long. After what has happened in Egypt and Libya the concerns are greater. There are some speculations that the cell phones of people are tapped, and the security checkups have increased. Once my phone rang and an automatic voice mail was being played. It was the president holding a speech where he thanks for the election outcome and speaks of peace and unity.More measurements are set in to avoid riots. Nobody really knows if a revolution or a civil war will break out or not in Uganda but the concerns are there and the tension is getting higher. Just a day ago when Thore, Robin and I went to do some groceries, Siri called us. She had been informed there were severe riots and military force and for us not to head into town.

Despite all its conflicts, poverty, corruption, but also beauty, joy, and kindness I can only conclude that there is just something about Africa that touches the heart.